DIAMOND SLICE
How a piece of New York found its way to Copenhagen
At Nørrebro’s Diamond Slice, they serve a style of pizza very different from the minimalist Neapolitan style that has dominated Copenhagen for years: The New York slice.
But pizza is just pizza, right? Well -- it’s complicated. But more on that later.
The pizza slice has long had a local reputation for being an overpriced and mildly uninteresting little sibling to the real deal. Diamond Slice, which opened last fall, defies that perception, and the reviews already speak for themselves. However, behind the hype is the story of devoting yourself to a concept – and sticking to it.
“We had an angry customer walk out, loudly declaring that he’d never return. Which was a rough start”
“When we first opened, we also had whole 32-centimeter pizzas on the menu. We knew Copenhageners can be choosy about their pizza, and we had concerns over how they would see the price point relative to the value of the slice,” says Alex Dadzis, co-owner of Diamond Slice along with fellow Bæst alumni Jan Kopacz and Kristopher Schram.
Alex Dadzis is the self-described “dough guy” in charge of both the literal dough and the finances at Diamond Slice, while Kopacz and Schram handle operations and marketing respectively, in addition to kitchen duties.
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Diamond Slice opened in the fall of 2022, after a stint as a popup at the neighbouring Depanneur kiosk.
All three owners are Bæst alumni, with Jan Kopacz having worked as head chef of the renowned pizza restaurant. Alex Dadzis has a background in food science, but cut his teeth at a number of high-profile restaurants in Copenhagen and London, initially drawn here from Canada by his Danish girlfriend and the allure of the New Nordic cuisine. The initial idea for bringing the N.Y. slice to Copenhagen came courtesy of Kristopher Schram, who has a strong affinity for the city.
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Rave reviews aside, we’re impressed with Diamond Slice’s devotion to their concept and identity, and how they’ve managed to rethink and elevate a fast-food classic many have thought was already done to (near) perfection.
Diamond Slice is also the joint venture of three friends and former Bæst alumni, an example of more and more restaurants being collaborative efforts rather than the brainchild of a single chef or restaurateur.
Getting the concept right
Because of the difference in size between the slices and the regular-sized pizza, two separate production lines were needed to make both when Diamond Slice initially opened.
Even for seasoned pizza veterans, that proved a logistical challenge in a small industrial kitchen. After some deliberation, the three owners decided to go all-in on the slices.
“The first day we had whole pizzas off the menu, we had an angry customer shout at us, loudly declaring that he’d never return. Which was a rough start,” Alex Dadzis recounts.
The whole pizzas were not only a hassle, however. They were also watering down the concept, which takes its cues from the iconic pizza slice parlors of New York City.
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They might be related, but they’re quite different: The New York Pizza is baked longer at lower temperature and hydration than a classic Italian pizza. It’s far more generous when it comes to toppings and cheese (using low-moisture mozzarella is a must).
The result is a different taste and texture with a thin, yet sturdy crust that holds up well to the larger number of toppings. Unlike the Neapolitan pizza, it doesn’t get soggy if it sits a while after baking.
It turns out the customer’s reaction was not representative, and the slices have won hearts and minds since. Not merely because they’re different, but because of the rigorous process of quality control each piece goes through before serving.
“Even if it’s a simple product, there are no shortcuts. That means every slice has been checked by someone before it goes out to make sure it’s exactly how we want to have it ourselves,” Alex Dadzis explains.
The price point is also fair compared to a regular pizza, he adds, as one to two Diamond Slices easily rival a full pizza for the amount of food you’re getting.
A homage to the N.Y. pizza parlor
The concept nods at New York’s iconic pizza places and New Yorkers’ no-nonsense take on fast food. The décor at Diamond Slice channels that same simple, imperfect, and slightly erratic vibe, with novelty items sprinkled throughout: American summer camp glasses and the infamous red tealight bowls that were everywhere in Danish homes in the 90’s. The team worked with designers Stine and Matilde Friese and their design agency Reflektor, using a series of workshops and mood boards to get the décor right.
The same approach is also visible in their digital media. In a time when even fast-food has been infiltrated by Instagram beauty standards, Diamond Slice has gone in the opposite direction:
Out with pristine, sharp, and perfectly graded plating shots. In with sepia snapshots of sumptuous slices being held, folded, or casually slumped on pizza boxes or the signature paper napkins they’re served on. Diamond Slice also has a presence on TikTok, mostly due to its quick-and-dirty video editor.
“We basically do what we like and produce or repost content that fits that visual style,” Alex Dadzis says, adding that none of the team are professional photographers. “A pizza slice is not aesthetic in the classic sense and should not be made to look that way in a photo. That also matches guests’ expectations of what they’re getting, and it stays true to the product itself.”
Alex Dadzis’ tips
We asked all interviewees for their best advice based on their own experiences in the industry. Here are Alex Dadzis’ tips for you, if you’re a restaurateur, chef or entrepreneur within the restaurant business:
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“Diamond Slice started as a popup event at Depanneur, and popups are a great way to test out an idea or product before assuming the full risk of running a business.”
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“When asked by you or someone else in the team, most people are too polite to point out any problems. It’s much more interesting what they do or say unsolicited, so put your energy here.”
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“This one is closely connected to the previous tip, but simply observing the interactions and expressions of your guests and taking note of them can really provide a lot of insights.”
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I believe it’s important that your visual style matches your product and what you do. I think the so-called Instagram aesthetic can easily set diners up for disappointment once they go and try the real thing – that has certainly happened to me more than once.
