Jonathan Knoll (left) and Daniel “Abi” Abiani, chefs and co-owners of Baka d’ Busk

The restaurant

Baka
d’ Busk

Baka d’ Busk’s “veggie gangsters” bring a plant-based twist to the classic bistro concept - and it works. Now, they’re bringing their world to a wider audience with a catering and deli concept.

Baka d’ Busk exists in a world of its own: From its tunnel-like interior and bold, organic artwork to its co-owners, chefs Jonathan Knoll and Daniel “Abi” Abiani, forget any stereotypes about vegetarian dining.

This team of self-styled “veggie gangsters” embraces a rebellious, playful approach to working in a restaurant. This is evident on both their social media feeds and when visiting in-person.

“We call ourselves veggie gangsters because we’re like plant pushers. It’s really about taking the piss a little bit, both for our guests and the team,” Abi says. 

“We genuinely love working with vegetables and creating something amazing from them. For us, it’s never about trend-chasing or other hidden agendas,” says Jonathan Knoll of the restaurant’s philosophy.

They sidestep the debate on climate-friendly food, which sometimes feels polarized between guilt-trippers and those who see meat-free dishes as a downgrade. What Baka d’ Busk offers is a “plant bistro” that delivers the rich, hearty experience of a classic bistro, with vegetables in the spotlight.

We genuinely love working with vegetables and creating something amazing from them. For us, it’s never about trend-chasing or other hidden agendas.

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“Vegetables aren’t a sideshow here. We enhance their natural flavors instead of trying to mimic meat dishes,” Knoll explains.

Neither Knoll nor Abi are vegetarians themselves. However, their first restaurant was the now-closed Plads’n, where they had to follow the owner’s strict vegan vision.

“I was so hyped to have my own place, I didn’t even think much about the limitations,” Knoll admits. After moving on, they reintroduced dairy, embracing a broader vegetarian menu.

The team behind Baka d’ Busk: 

Abi and Jonathan are one-third of the restaurants’s six owners. They’re also the ones you will usually see in the restaurant, as they are in charge of daily operations and the kitchen. 

The rest of the owners are: 

Akiva Tschernia (restaurant manager and sommelier)

Benjamin Grodin (artist-in-residence and a key part of building the restaurant)

Yoel Tschernia (head of finances and accounting)

Philip Varlev (head of sales and marketing)

There’s a concise method behind it all. Even if it may look very easygoing, even slightly erratic, at first glance, Knoll and Abi have thought about everything from pricing to sourcing.

“With meat or fish, menus can stay pretty fixed year-round, with minor adjustments on the side and garnishes. With vegetables, you have to be ready to take what growers have on a given day,” Abi says.

And sometimes take a lot of it: Today, they’ve received 200 kg of eggplants and red peppers from Portugal at a price too good to refuse - requiring some creative improvisation.

Huge amounts of greens like these aren’t a rare thing, though: 

“We work very closely with four to five growers, and we are by far their biggest client. What we go through in a single day could be as much as a regular restaurant’s weekly usage of vegetables,” says Knoll. 

He also firmly challenges the idea that plant-based meals should automatically be cheaper.

“We don’t want to feel like a ‘cheap’ place,” he says. “In practice, that means generous servings and fair pricing. We’re very deliberately not a budget restaurant, but our guests should absolutely get their money’s worth.”

“Also, try buying in-season asparagus or tomatoes,” Abi adds. “Veggies can be expensive too. Luckily, we no longer have to justify our prices.”

The veggie gangsters are currently branching out into other ventures: They have already launched a catering business and are opening Hala Ma Deli - a walk-in deli shop - down the street. Aside from supporting their tiny 10-square-meter kitchen, the deli will offer pickles, ferments, marmalades, and other products that diners will already be familiar with.

“The idea is to bring some of what we do to a wider audience - from weddings and events to people’s home kitchens,” Knoll says.

They also hope to inspire more people to cook with plants.

“Cooking with vegetables isn’t rocket science. We certainly try our best not to overthink it. With good ingredients and simple tools like a blender, pot, and a stove, a home chef can go very far. We want to encourage more people to try it out for themselves,” he says.

Cooking with vegetables isn’t rocket science. We certainly try our best not to overthink it.

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Editor’s note: Why we like Baka d’ Busk

… and what others can learn from them.

  • Baka d’ Busk have made it their thing to put vegetables first and to develop dishes who build upon their natural qualities and flavors, rather than mimicking meat-based servings. In their own words, they think more about doing what’s right for an ingredient than creating a “vegetarian dish”. 

  • There’s no such thing as a set menu when you’re cooking with plants. Baka d’ Busk have embraced the unpredictability, and use themes such as different national cuisines or even color schemes to provide some degree of structure instead of relying upon the same ingredients always being available. 

  • Few do a better job at making a restaurant seem like a fun and high-spirited affair. And they make it a point to never preach.